In February the sun is at it’s strongest, the rains are at their rarest and the grass is at it’s brownist.  Kids have gone back to school but summer is still at full tilt which means there’s really only one place to be – at the beach.  And who doesn’t like the beach, especially if you can pack up Wanda, your trusty 4WD camper, and head to some of the best beaches in the world.

Last year at this time Julie and I travelled north and rediscovered some quiet little communities, thick national parks and beautiful beaches up around South West Rocks.  This year we turned south, intending to explore a couple national parks on the way to discovering new beaches and returning to one of our favourite sandy stretches.  We were planning to meet up with friends, get sunburned and enjoy life.

Running down the east coast spine of Australia is the Great Dividing Range, a thick and steep mountain range that runs the length of New South Wales and separates inland from outback.  The range rarely rises above 1,000 metres but is harsh rugged land, mainly protected by a long string of national parks and state forests, only the occasional road crossing from east to west. 

We set our sights on exploring a few new parts of this wonderful wilderness area and after following some rough dirt tracks that would have stopped most two wheel drives up and down mountain ridges through beautiful thick gum trees we ended the day camping at Mulloon Creek Campground on the edge of Tallaganda National Park.  Set under a grove of towering ribbon gums next to the little flowing creek, we had the place all to ourselves – a perfect hidden getaway for our first night.  Yes, we were still a long way from the beach but that would come later.

The next day we tracked through more of these mountain trails, stopping occasionally to collect firewood or take photos.  We stopped in the small regional hub of Braidwood, now a popular tourist destination on the weekends, before moving eastward, edging towards our beachside camp for the night. 

But we couldn’t resist exploring Clyde River National Park which protects the steep mountainous areas near the Clyde River as it flows into the ocean at Bateman’s Bay.  The camping spots at the end of steep four wheel drive tracks on the edge of the tidal river were tempting but we had another place in mind.

Moruya is a friendly holiday destination on the banks of the Moruya River and on the northern side of the river is Moruya North Head Primitive Campground.  Positioned at the mouth of the river and the southern end of the long Bengello Beach, the campground sprawls over large grassy areas with plenty of shade, drop toilets and outdoor cold showers – just our standard.  There were many other people there, each sporting their own preferences in camping style, but we picked up the slow-down-and-enjoy-the-place vibe. 

The afternoon still had enough time for us to walk down to the beach for a swim and to walk out on the long breakwater where local fishermen were hoping to catch bream, flathead or trevally. The warm evening only needed a small fire and life was good.

The next day we lazily made our way back to the beach for some quality sand time and frequent swims, opting to stay in camp in the afternoon to slow down our rate of melanoma.    We’re not used to this snail pace but were doing our best. 

That night our new camping neighbour, a timeless Italian immigrant named Arrigo, came back to camp with a bucket full of freshly caught trevally and he gladly gave us two of them for dinner.  Julie stuffed them with chili and garlic, I then cooked them on the fire.  Absolutely glorious.

The next day we moved south of the Moruya River, into Eurobodella National Park and one of our favourite beach-side spots at Congo Beach Campground.  Here the little tidal river flows into – and out of – the ocean with swimming beaches on both sides of the outlet.  It is a perfect place to sleep in, slow down, chill out, bum about. 

We spent three nights at Congo Beach, the first two with our good friends Bernie and Andrew, who we met by chance in some distant car park a few years ago because we have identical Trayon campers.  Bernie and Andrew are great fun to hang out with, like minds, very relaxed, good travellers.  We went to the beach together during the day and played cards at night, just what the doctor ordered.

After they left Julie and I enjoyed a morning following the Bingi Dreaming walking trail which started in the little community of Congo and followed the coast southward, eventually dropping down to the beach at Meringa.  After exploring the estuary and snacking in the shade we turned around and walked back along Congo Beach.  

This beautiful walk reminded us how lucky we are – fabulous coastal bush, headlands and beaches, all protected by national parks, not another soul in sight.  And not just here – this is a feature along large stretches of coastline in NSW and other states, ready to be explored and enjoyed for those who make half an effort.  Australia at it’s best.

With the promise of grey skies at the beach we decided to head back inland and explore a few more places in the rugged mountains that separate the coast from the continent’s inland.  Bernie and Andrew had recommended the mountainous Araluen Road connecting Braidwood to the coast so we headed that way, enjoying the dirt track as it winded up and over ridge after ridge, providing grand views of the handsome Deua River and the valley below. 

We camped that night at the quiet little Bakers Flat campground with great views of the river and our most famous visitor being a Death Adder snake. 

The next morning we stopped in the historic mining town of Araluen, taking in the fab views all around us while trying to image life in this remote valley back in the 1850’s when gold was discovered and more than 3,000 people called Araluen home.  Life was described as ‘fast’ in those days with more than 30 pubs in town and probably more misery than happiness. 

Our short break to the mountains and the beaches was over as we hoofed our way home, the larder empty and social engagements beckoning.  But it doesn’t take much to be reminded of what a wonderful adventure playground we live in, whether you want rugged mountains, beautiful rivers, rich history or long sandy beaches.  It’s all around us.