The Royal
The Royal is one of the true treasures of New South Wales. Its close proximity to Sydney, only a 15 minute drive from its southern suburbs, makes it accessible to everyone with a yearning for the great outdoors. And what a special place it is!
The Royal National Park, to use its formal name, was established way back in 1879 and is the second oldest national park in the world, after Yellowstone in the US. Its stunning coastline, beautiful remote beaches, hearty plant life and extensive walking tracks make the Royal an outstanding place to visit. And on a recent weekend Julie and I fell in love with it again.
When our kids were young we would frequently go into the park for a bush walk, a picnic and a swim, often times amazed at how far their little legs would take them. They would splash in the shallow pools of a creek as it flowed over ancient sandstone rock, often racing gum leaves down through the little rapids. The deep sandy beaches were an adventure in themselves given their long reach and remote location but there were also the rivers, bird life and occasional kangaroo to entertain us. The Royal is top drawer.
The gem of the Royal is a 30 km walking track that winds its way along the coast line from its northern end at Bundeena to the southern end at Otford. It is commonly done in sections but some intrepid hikers do it in a weekend and camp half way in one of the quiet little coves or beaches. Julie and I did exactly that 29 years ago – a memorable event as it was Julie’s first backpacking trip.
Without quite the same free time but keen to get out in the bush, Julie and I jumped at a chance to spend a recent sunny Sunday in the park and drove to the coast track trailhead at Bundeena. From there we followed the coast south, cutting through the thick coastal heathland and hugging the steep cliffs that separated continent from ocean. The day was pleasantly warm but not hot, breezy but not windy and cloudless to perfection.
We followed the track along the cliff line, occasionally dotting inland as it rounded a deep crevasse caused by a creek or walked precariously along the edge across the pocked sandstone. The views looking down the coast took your breath away and if you stood too close to the edge the vertigo would take your balance away.
After a picnic lunch with commanding views of the ocean far below us we continued south, eventually making it to Marley Beach. We took off our shoes to test the waters, a favourite tradition of Julie’s, and eventually made our way barefoot over the point to Little Marley Beach. This was our turnaround spot because unlike 29 years ago, we had work the next day and had to reluctantly trudge back to civilisation.
But we’re inspired again to do the rest of the coast walk in later weekends and to once again explore the treasures of the Royal. We might even get our kids to join us so we can walk the tracks and play in the creeks together again.